RIVET JAPAN DENIM MANUFACTURING

100% MADE IN JAPAN PREMIUM DENIM

Sample development and Production

If you have developed garments, particularly jeans, before then a lot of this will not be new, so you can just skip around and read the juicy bits.


How do we get started???

So you want to make some samples? OK!!
The first step in the process is for you to provide either a complete pattern (DXF or paper) or a detailed tech pack / spec sheet with a fit target for the garment you are choosing to make. If you don't have a pattern we will create one for you based on the fit target you provide.

If you want to put a wash on anything we are making for you we need a wash target of some kind too.
For wash targets - pictures of "things that are cool" are OK.... but we really, really like actual garments we can touch. Wash or dry clean it before you send it too.

So if you like the look of an old military jacket you found at the flea market or a pair of jeans your dad wore for 6 years wrenching on the car.... send it! We can base your wash design on just about anything you provide. Or we can use it as a base / starting point and build on a theme.
Be creative. Our skills are sick!
R.I.P. to all the other guys that think they can best our expertise in finishing. Muuu-hahahaha!
Don't worry... we send these things back to you. And we don't cut them up or anything!

If you have custom made trims. Please send them to us for attachment.
If you need to develop trims for your label, let us know and we can handle that for you as well. All we need are your design data files to do this for you.
There are a variety of costs and lead times associated with custom trim development, so plan accordingly. We can break it all down for you if you are interested.
If you want to use standard trims for your styles we can suggest something for you or you can pick from a catalog of stuff we have available.

And then one of the most important things - we need you to give us a price target for the garment. The price targets we work with are EXW.

While you guys are getting this stuff ready for us we will find fabrics that match your design goals.
If you want us to find, for example, a selvedge denim rope dyed by Japanese snow monkeys in natural indigo / 13 OZ / 7/-x 7/- / bamboo blend cotton --- tell us and we will dig up some swatches for you.
Whatever kind of fabric you want we will find it and have it delivered to us by ninjas riding fixed gear bikes.

Once we have the swatches of your fabric ready to ship, you provide us with your international courier details and we will send it to you. Swatches / samples of fabric are free of charge. We only ask that you handle the shipping charges using a courier of your choice.



OK. So I have sent you my fit target, my tech packs and some ideas about what I want to see...

Did you get your fabric swatches yet? Yeah? OK. Good. Check em out. Find something you like and tell us.
Have you sent your tech packs and target fits to us yet? Have you sent the wash targets along as well? Yeah? OK!!
Now we are getting warm....and tingly....

From here we begin setting up all the details of what you need done.

Now, every label is different and we are aware that you guys all have a unique way of working. But that's OK. We are flexible, nimble and quick on our feet.
So if you like to use email. Do it. Send all your stuff to us in a barrage of electronic mayhem.

If you like Skype or iChat. Wicked! We like that too.
Even the good old fashioned phone still is a marvel of communication technology.

Communication is the most important thing at this stage so be sure to contact us as often as you need as we are getting set up with all of your details.

In most cases we will ask lots of questions and give commentary like, "do you want it to look like this?" and, "oooh, nice" and, "if you do it this way it's cheaper"
Just remember that the more info you can give us in the beginning, the smoother and faster everything will go!!

So what's next?

We make a pattern for you! This is your master pattern. Then we sew it all up using our magical Japanese sewing machines. And wash it, if needed, in mystical sake infused water blessed by Shinto monks high on a mist shrouded hill....

Most samples take anywhere from 2-3 weeks to complete for everything (pattern making, sewing, wash). Once they are complete we take detailed glamor shots (pictures) of our handiwork. You guys check them out. How do they look? Nice.

We send you an invoice for sample creation. You guys wire the funds for sample creation. We ship them to you using your aforementioned courier service.

This pre-payment system for samples is in place only for the first few sample orders. Once you have done business with us for a little while (we know you and you know us) , these icky things like pre-payment before sample shipment go away.
But, seeing as how we are far away in another country (JAPAN!!!) we have always done it this way for the beginning of a relationship with a label. I hope you understand :)

At this time we will also provide you with an estimate for the cost of manufacturing based on the different variables associated with your product.

One of the things we are really good at is finding ways to make the stuff you want for cheaper. Made in Japan isn't cheap, but we have some special ways of helping you cut costs without sacrificing the quality you expect from a made in Japan product.

Adjusting, tweaking and finalizing.

Did your samples arrive safe and sound? Yes. That's wonderful! Have you tried them on? How do they fit? How do they look? (the answer is almost always, "wow!" just to let you know...)

Now is the time where you may feel that you want to adjust the fit or the wash.

No problem....
Keep in mind that after your master pattern / fit is made we can change or adjust it anyway you want, but each time we do that it costs ¥¥. So try to lock it in as best you can on the first shot so you have minimal changes to make after.

Making changes can be done by adjusting your spec sheet if you have one. Also easy and somewhat popular is sticking masking tape on the garment and writing in marker - indicating the areas you need to have adjusted. Just be as clear as possible with the changes. You can send sketches, notes, pictures or anything you like along with the sample to make the changes you need.

Making changes to a first sample is normal. Don't fret. It usually takes two or three tries to nail something down in the fit department. It is a process... But once you get it perfect you are golden!!

If you do need to make a second or third sample, the costs will include any adjustments to the master pattern plus the cost of the garment sample itself. Each new sample takes about the same amount of time as the first - about 2-3 weeks.

Once you have completed the process of developing a sample to your satisfaction, then it's time to move to production!!!

BTW....What does all of this sample developing cost?

Master patterns are 20,000 Japanese Yen (¥) each.
Samples are 21,000 ¥ each for bottoms - any fabric.
Tops, like jackets and shirts, vary from 21,000¥ to 40,000¥ depending on the design.
Pattern adjustments and modifications are part by part. Usually about 2000¥-5000¥ for each part that needs to be changed. Sometimes more, sometime less. Just depends on the part.

Things like screen printing or plastisol require that we make templates to do that work. The costs for these templates varies depending on the design you provide.

So I have my final sample confirmed and I'm ready to begin production. What happens next?

First thing we do is establish a delivery schedule.
Typically most production runs take anywhere from 40 to 55 days. Depends on what we are making for you.
So you guys decide when you will need the production delivered and we will work with you on getting it done and delivered during that timeframe. Delivering on time and on spec is extremely important to us!!

Before we begin anything though we need to have an order sheet of some kind from your company. Something that outlines your size breakdown and quantity. Once we have this document from you your order can move forward.

We also need you to send back to us the final confirmed sample or samples that we will use as a template for your production.

How do we pay?

Good question...

We do production using L/C or T/T only.

A common T/T type transaction involves you paying 70% of the production costs up front to begin, with the remaining 30% payable upon completion of the production.
This T/T payment process varies from label to label so talk to us and we can decide together what works best for your company.

L/C type transactions can be handled by your international bankers.

We provide confirmation samples chosen at random from the lot, sent to you for approval. Or sometimes we do confirmation by photos and email. Depends on how much time we have.

What other things do we need to know?

Custom trims >>> We need to have all of your trims on hand before we begin, so be sure to send those to Japan to coincide with the start of production.

Cutting >>> Once we receive your T/T payment or L/C to begin, cutting of the fabric for your production will begin immediately. Once your fabric cutting has begun we can't make any changes to the order sheet. So make extra double sure you have what you need on there!

Grading >>> This is the process by which we make all of the sizes you need. We use the master pattern as the block and grade up and down accordingly. The costs for this process are roughly 5000¥-7000¥ per size. Sometimes less, sometimes more. It depends on the design of your garment and the number of pieces in the pattern.
The costs for grading are invoiced to you at the same time production is complete. Payment for grading is required before your goods are shipped.

Overrun / Underun >>> When we manufacture garments we always use full rolls of fabric. We do this to ensure that you get the proper number of pieces for your order. Sometimes there are problems with a sewn or washed garment and it doesn't pass QC, reducing the overall total. Hence the need to always make just a little more whenever possible. Quantity tolerances are +/- 5%. So if we end up with like 8 or 9 extra pieces in the end we will ship these to you along with everything else and invoice you for the over run, payable before shipping.
If in the event of under run, we will adjust the final payments accordingly for the new quantity.

How do we get our stuff from Japan to our place?

Rivet Japan will handle the export of your goods from the factory to the airport or sea port for transport. We handle all of the necessary documents and logistics to make this happen.
We work with a variety of freight agents in Japan. But we only go as far as the airport or dock.
That means that you have to have a frieght agent on your end that we can liaise with. Before we ship anything for you we need to have this info from you to coordinate everything.

FOB costs for transport and handling are invoiced before shipping and must be payed before your goods are shipped.






wow. you read it all. Killer!! Now let's make some pants.